Please refer to
the Engine Swapping section as well!
I've found it helpful to support the front of the car by jackstands
when you go to put the motor in, so that the weight of the
motor doesn't cause the front of the car to drop down once installed,
messing up the alignment of the tranny on its support, etc. This helped me
to be able to drop my motor in singlehandedly, whereas I usually had to
fight to get the engine to mate with the tranny, engage the torque
converter, and land on the motor mounts, even with another person helping.
Lubrication, or the lack thereof, affects
torque wrench readings. Dry readings with vary, while lubed reading are
reproducable. The shop manual usually specifies whether or
not to oil the fasteners. If you don't have a shop manual, get one.
One of the best investments you'll make.
Scribe marks, paint, or locating holes notwithstanding, the hood will
be perfectly aligned when you reattach it. DO NOT blindly slam the hood the first
time. Check for alignment carefully and adjust as required.
In addition, having more than one
of the same car makes it very easy to figure out where something goes -
you have a full-scale model.
Get all new hoses; this allows you to simply cut the old ones off, possibly
saving your heater core (which might spring a leak from all the twisting and
turning to get the old hose off; it's worth the $5 in hose).
Consider getting the correct hoses & checking each out before you cut
the old ones. A good way to cut the hoses is to slit them at the
connection so that they can be spread open & off. Cutting them around
their circumference still causes you to put a lot of pressure on brittle
old metal parts that don't need this type treatment. Reinstallation can
be made easier by coating the inside of the hoses w/Vasoline at the
contact places. It allows easy later removal too - even years later.
Always a must with a new engine. If you spend $2000 on motor, and many
hours or weeks making a pro-show engine compartment, do you really want to
risk running an old hose that might easily pop due to the increased heat
load of a new engine?
Also plan on buying new fuel, oil, and water pumps, and all filters, new
oil, antifreeze, and trans fluid and filter/pan gasket.
Also, there is no sense in running the old, baked tranny fluid through a new
convertor. While changing tranny fluid, make sure to flush out the cooler
lines and cooler. They'll hopefully clean out the cooler at the radiator
shop. If you're due for a new engine, odds are the tranny fluid needs it,
too, cuz probably over 95% of trannies don't get their oil changed every
20000 miles like they are supposed to.
While the engine is out, replace all expendable/consumable parts, such
as hoses, thermostat, distributor cap and plug wires, plugs (of
course), filters, belts, rubber motor mounts, starter drive and
brushes (didn't think of that one, did you), exhaust doughnuts (if so
equipped), etc. This rapidly gets into serious mightaswells.
Put the heat shield and braces on the starter (instead of
throwing them away, like usually happens when installing on the car)
As you slowly lower the new/rebuilt engine back into your shiny new
engine compartment, you will be thanking me profusely that I talked
you into getting that engine tilter. The option when the engine is at
the wrong angle (not if, when), is to either pull it completely back
out and reposition the chain, or to set it down on your
freshly-painted crossmember and watch in horror as it slowly tilts
towards the inner fender panel.
Getting Down to Business
All bolts being reused should be thoroughly cleaned and lubricated for
installation. Pay particular attention to the six bellhousing to
block bolts (voice of experience on). These bolts must be
properly torqued (he said, examining knuckles slashed from sharp
points protruding from firewall) and should likely be installed with
Locktite. Should they loosen (which happened twice on my first 442),
the flexplate will really flex, leading to rapid fatigue failure and
cracking (since the crank and transmission centerlines will not be
When reinstalling, put a dab of grease on the pilot area
of the torque convertor. I'd never seen it happen, but heard of it in
college. Under heavy stall conditions, the torque convertor actually
balloons, and expands into the center of the flexplate. This is alleged to
be a normal condition. A dab of chassis lube on the end of the convertor
will prevent any binding during this occurrence. We hope.
Before reinstalling, make sure the torque converter hasn't moved
forward (do you get the sense that there are some lessons learned
here?). If so, push it back onto the input shaft while turning (there
are several concentric splines which must line up).
[ Thanks to Bob Barry, Scott Mullen, Joe Padavano, Charley Buehner,
Bob Barry, Bill Culp, Glenn for this information ]