Rebuilding, Swapping, Buildup, & Restoration


Gaskets, Seals

Use the thicker oil pan gaskets for the Olds 350 diesel to better prevent pan oil leaks.

To change a 2 piece rear mail seal without removing the crankshaft . . .

The rope type is hard to do. To remove the old upper half you try to pull it with needle nose plyers while turning the crank. Pushing it from the other side can help a little if the seal is old and hard. If its soft it will just wad up when pushed on.

To install the upper half they made a tool that worked like chinese handcuffs with a flexable wire attached. You threaded the wire through the seal groove and pulled the rope through.The seal is long enough so you can remove the tool and trim the seal. You can't pack it in like you would if you had the crank out.

The neoprene type will usually come out fairly easily by pushing on it and turning the crank. With some oil on it the new one will slip right in. Main bearings can be changed in the same way.

I would think the Fel-Pro numbers would still be good, don't know about the FoMoCo number since I recall they drop stuff right and left, change numbers, etc. The Fel-Pro numbers can probably be cross referenced to other brands as well.

The small block can use the rear main seal for the old Ford 292 engine. It is Fel-Pro B/S 6141.

The big block Olds can use the Ford 460 neoprene rear main seal. The Fel-Pro part number is B/S 40032. The Ford part number is E9AZ-6701-A or D2VE-6701-AA.

Remember to offset the split ends, slightly off the main end caps, and seal the two ends with some gasket sealer(Peramtex 700). Also put a light covering of assembly lube or grease on the part that seals the crackshaft so it doesn't burn up the seal on start up.

[ Thanks to Cliff Feiler, John Foster, Bob Handren for this information ]

Rocker Covers

I prefer rubber gaskets over cork. Then I take hardening Peratex and place it only on the valve cover and not the engine. Make sure everything is clean before the install. Wipe the gasket areas down with lacquer thinner first. When you tighten them down DON'T USE A RACHET. I use a nut driver and only snug them well with a screwdriver like twist. This prevents overtightening which WILL cause leaks. Over tightening is the major cause of the leaks. Silicon doesn't help either. It has a tendency to let the gasket squirm too much. Five years and they still do not leak.

Victor makes gaskets that are laminated steel and cork. They work well. Take alot of on and offs too. The part number is #VS38305TC.

I like the Fel-pro composition (rubber/Cork) valve cover gaskets for sealing ability. If I'm not going to the track, and I don't plan on opening the engine soon, I always use the composition type.

There are three ways to seal valve covers properly. Use rubber gaskets. Use cork gaskets but before installing them, rub silicone all over them and let them set up for half an hour before installing them. Or use silicone only, putting a good bead of silicone around your valve cover, install, then let set up for half an hour before tightening them to factory specs.

[ Thanks to Jim Chermack, Scott Kozhill for this information ]


Don't use head studs, as you can't pull the heads off the motor when they're in the car.

[ Thanks to Bob Barry, David Voit for this information ]